“The old way of climbing was systematic, methodical, and consistent. Now it’s anything goes, reacting to every situation differently.” —Tommy Caldwell • For skilled climbers who want to push to the next level • Tips and advice from Tommy Caldwell, Steph Davis, Lynn Hill, Alex Honnold and more of the world’s best climbers • 250 color photographs and 12 illustrations Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques is for good climbers who want to get even better—from training to gear, sport climbing to multi-pitch efficiency, and beyond. Each chapter has detailed advice from some of the world’s best climbers and guides—Tommy Caldwell, Angela Hawse, Justen Sjong, Steph Davis, Sonny Trotter, Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill, and more. Through clear, step-by-step instruction, detailed color photographs, and hard-earned wisdom, this new guide helps strong climbers increase their speed on multi-pitch climbs, conserve energy on big faces, train for tendon strength, improvise self-rescue, and more. Advanced Rock Climbing is for someone who has been climbing for several years and aspires to transition from intermediate to advanced levels, experienced climbers who are stuck in a rut, and naturally talented climbers who are climbing high grades but who may not have the experience to go further safely.
Recommended by the American Mountain Guides Association Advanced Rock Climbing, written by AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Bob Gaines, covers concepts and topics for today’s rock climbers looking to take their skills and experience to the next level. Combining up-to-date and complete information on toproping, anchors, rappelling, safety and rescue techniques, gear, and so much more in one comprehensive book, Advanced Rock Climbing is a must-have title for any serious climber or climbing instructor. Inside you’ll find: Detailed and thorough instructions on face climbing, crack climbing, and anchor systems In-depth information on aid climbing, including the Yosemite Method Best practices for leading sport and trad climbs The latest rescue and assistance techniques And much, much more!
• Approximately 35 new techniques, safety considerations, and subjects • National Outdoor Book Award winner in first edition • First edition of this popular title has sold 50,000 copies Thousands of rock climbers have learned the sport using Craig Luebben’s seminal and bestselling text, Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills. Now Craig’s friend and fellow climber Topher Donahue brings the content up to current standards and includes technological advances, while preserving Craig’s comprehensive approach. An award-winning climber in his own right, Topher uses his writing and photography skills to simplify the complex world of modern climbing technique and reveals the thought process behind safe and practical climbing methods. This second edition includes European climbing techniques that offer alternatives to those traditionally taught in North America. Topher has also incorporated new lessons derived from accidents due, in part, to the increased popularity of climbing. Also found in this edition: • Over 10,000 more words and 125 more photos • Three never-before-published techniques: Adjustable Hitch, High Friction Tubes, and Bight Method • Detailed technical updates throughout • New distinction between “anchor” (a group of placements, pieces, or bolts used at the end of a pitch or for top rope or rappel setup) and “placement” or “piece” (individual cams, nuts, etc., used in groups to make an anchor or used individually as protection on a pitch)
CLICK HERE to download the chapter called, "Anchor Basics" from Rock Climbing Anchors (Provide us with a little information and we'll send your download directly to your inbox) "Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen," says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors. This entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.
Author: John Long
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
Release Date: 2010-06-15
Genre: Sports & Recreation
How to Rock Climb!, now in its fifth edition, is the most thorough instructional rock climbing book in the world. All the fundamentals—from ethics to getting up the rock—are presented in John Long's classic style. Thoroughly revised and updated to reflect the modern standards of equipment, technique, and training methods, this guide includes sections on face climbing; crack climbing; ropes, anchors, and belays; getting off the rock; sport climbing; and much more. It is the essential how-to book for rock climbers everywhere. Now with more than 300 color photographs and illustrations, this is the most thorough and complete upgrade this best-selling title has seen since first publishing more than a decade ago.
Author: Mark Houston
Publisher: The Mountaineers Books
Release Date: 2004
Genre: Sports & Recreation
* For climbers who know the basics and are ready to venture at higher altitudes* Written by longtime guides and climbing instructors certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA)* Teaches situational thinking and learning as well as techniqueThis intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude - approximately 5000 meters (16,000 feet) and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery - and safety - lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision-making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process. Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying,rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.
This authoritative and comprehensive guide to advanced climbing techniques is aimed at climbers with previous outdoor experience who wish to develop their skills, take their pursuit to new levels, and discover new terrains. Aspects of climbing such as multipitch climbs, abseiling and climbing in big crag and mountain environments are explored in detail, together with essential safety topics such as self-rescue, emergency ropework, first aid, advanced navigation and mountain weather forecasting. For the competitively oriented, an advanced training section provides expert professional advice on how to maximize training sessions to achieve the ultimate in strength and endurance. Last, but not least, a glossy photographic feature highlights some of the best and most glorious climbing locations around the world. With expert instruction, step-by-step features and over 300 superb action photographs and illustrations, this is the essential handbook for all rock climbing enthusiasts.
Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, this book offers a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury.
"Traditional Lead Climbing" is intended to teach rock climbers how to lead with gear. This invaluable book gives step-by-step descriptions of equipment, rope management, and techniques. Dozens of close-up photos and fun yet informative drawings show situations climbers might encounter and how to deal with them.
Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual is intended to serve as a textbook for past and furture participants of the AMGA SPI program. The book more specifically address the needs of the professional cilmbing instructor and advanced recreational climbers. It presents the most current, internationally recognized standards for technical climbing systems used in single pitch rock terrain. Included are chapters on effective teaching in the outdoor environment, risk management, professionalism, environmental awareness, and rescue
Author: John Long
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
Release Date: 2013-07-02
Genre: Sports & Recreation
This completely revised and updated edition with all new color photos brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems most popular among climbers. Most climbers today learn their craft on artificial climbing walls and on sport routes with fixed protection. Their first efforts to lead on trad routes often come as a rude shock--they find that they haven't the skills and training to safeguard the climb or to set up solid belays. This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber's complete and authoritative source of information on protection, from fundamental knots to sophisticated rigging and equalizing skills.
Written by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) certified mountain guides Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo, The Mountain Guide Manual is the go-to reference for novice and experienced mountain guides, as well as advanced recreationalists. Covering everything from rope systems and belaying to advice on group dynamics and rescuing, the manual combines practical how-to instruction with clear graphics, illustrations, and awe-inspiring alpine imagery.
This is the first book to explore in depth the science of climbing and mountaineering. Written by a team of leading international sport scientists, clinicians and climbing practitioners, it covers the full span of technical disciplines, including rock climbing, ice climbing, indoor climbing and mountaineering, across all scientific fields from physiology and biomechanics to history, psychology, medicine, motor control, skill acquisition, and engineering. Striking a balance between theory and practice, this uniquely interdisciplinary study provides practical examples and illustrative data to demonstrate the strategies that can be adopted to promote safety, best practice, injury prevention, recovery and mental preparation. Divided into six parts, the book covers all essential aspects of the culture and science of climbing and mountaineering, including: physiology and medicine biomechanics motor control and learning psychology equipment and technology. Showcasing the latest cutting-edge research and demonstrating how science translates into practice, The Science of Climbing and Mountaineering is essential reading for all advanced students and researchers of sport science, biomechanics and skill acquisition, as well as all active climbers and adventure sport coaches.